P1S Printable Area
P1S Printable Area - (tapo tp115) attached are some screenshots of. Generally, the enclosure needs to be warm for abs, at least 30c, so generally don't want to vent that out, unless it gets too warm. I just bought the p1s last week (without the ams). Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be warped. Getting the hardened steel nozzle is a must, but another difference is the hardened extruder gears too. Initially, i was leaning towards the k1c, but i noticed a promotion on bambu printers, which makes the p1s available for about 700euro.
I have a p1s and have been playing with it for about 2 months. Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be warped. This prompted me to reconsider. That is, the printer is just a tool to print. (tapo tp115) attached are some screenshots of.
The internal camera for printer status and time lapse is much better on the x1c than the p1s. I just bought the p1s last week (without the ams). The video that is streams from the x1c whether watching on the phone, the. Initially, i was leaning towards the k1c, but i noticed a promotion on bambu printers, which makes the.
(tapo tp115) attached are some screenshots of. After looking at forums and other boards, the bambu printers. I have a p1s and have been playing with it for about 2 months. Generally, the enclosure needs to be warm for abs, at least 30c, so generally don't want to vent that out, unless it gets too warm. Getting the hardened steel.
Not a rookie but these are aspects i've seen and not yet solved in the past 4 years. Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be warped. The internal camera for printer status and time lapse is much better on the x1c than the p1s. (tapo tp115).
I just bought the p1s last week (without the ams). As someone who have used both k1 (not the max) and p1s, i am happily recommending the p1s at any time if your focus is on the actual printing itself. That is, the printer is just a tool to print. I have a p1s and have been playing with it.
Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be warped. Not a rookie but these are aspects i've seen and not yet solved in the past 4 years. I have a p1s and have been playing with it for about 2 months. I just bought the p1s last.
Not a rookie but these are aspects i've seen and not yet solved in the past 4 years. The video that is streams from the x1c whether watching on the phone, the. Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be warped. After looking at forums and other.
Generally, the enclosure needs to be warm for abs, at least 30c, so generally don't want to vent that out, unless it gets too warm. I have a p1s and have been playing with it for about 2 months. Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be.
Did a lot of research and narrowed it down to the p1s or the qidi x plus 3. After looking at forums and other boards, the bambu printers. Initially, i was leaning towards the k1c, but i noticed a promotion on bambu printers, which makes the p1s available for about 700euro. That is, the printer is just a tool to.
P1S Printable Area - I just bought the p1s last week (without the ams). After looking at forums and other boards, the bambu printers. (tapo tp115) attached are some screenshots of. Generally, the enclosure needs to be warm for abs, at least 30c, so generally don't want to vent that out, unless it gets too warm. The p1s has a fan that vents externally. That is, the printer is just a tool to print. This prompted me to reconsider. Now with the faster p1s i want try my hand at larger fpv models. The video that is streams from the x1c whether watching on the phone, the. Getting the hardened steel nozzle is a must, but another difference is the hardened extruder gears too.
Second question is, i need my product to be more impact/shock resistant than heat, have good layer adhesion, and not be warped. Not a rookie but these are aspects i've seen and not yet solved in the past 4 years. Did a lot of research and narrowed it down to the p1s or the qidi x plus 3. This prompted me to reconsider. The p1s has a fan that vents externally.
That Is, The Printer Is Just A Tool To Print.
(tapo tp115) attached are some screenshots of. Getting the hardened steel nozzle is a must, but another difference is the hardened extruder gears too. I just bought the p1s last week (without the ams). The video that is streams from the x1c whether watching on the phone, the.
The P1S Has A Fan That Vents Externally.
After looking at forums and other boards, the bambu printers. This prompted me to reconsider. I have a p1s and have been playing with it for about 2 months. Did a lot of research and narrowed it down to the p1s or the qidi x plus 3.
Second Question Is, I Need My Product To Be More Impact/Shock Resistant Than Heat, Have Good Layer Adhesion, And Not Be Warped.
Now with the faster p1s i want try my hand at larger fpv models. As someone who have used both k1 (not the max) and p1s, i am happily recommending the p1s at any time if your focus is on the actual printing itself. The internal camera for printer status and time lapse is much better on the x1c than the p1s. Generally, the enclosure needs to be warm for abs, at least 30c, so generally don't want to vent that out, unless it gets too warm.
Initially, I Was Leaning Towards The K1C, But I Noticed A Promotion On Bambu Printers, Which Makes The P1S Available For About 700Euro.
Not a rookie but these are aspects i've seen and not yet solved in the past 4 years.